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Tips
> General
Flooring
Ideas for Kitchens
Choices
and the pros and cons of each choice
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Kitchens
are the rooms in the home that take the most abuse.
The surfaces must be as permanent and
cleanable as possible to withstand the wear and tear of everyday use.
Selecting a material for your new kitchen's flooring requires thoughtful
attention to many issues. The habits of your family; materials available;
cleanability; resistance to wear; aesthetic qualities; the subsurface of
the floor; compatibility with your choices in cabinetry, countertop and
wall surfaces; availability and quality of natural light and artificial
lighting; and lastly, budget considerations.
My goal as a designer is to give my clients the longest lasting, easiest
to clean kitchen possible. To that end, here are my recommendations for
a variety of flooring surfaces that can be used in kitchens with good
results, their good qualities and negative qualities. I discuss the
materials below generally from least to most expensive in the Bay Area.
General Considerations.
Choose
a material, color and sheen that contrasts enough with the color
of your cabinetry that cabinets and floor do not get lost in each other.
Consider
the reflectivity of the flooring material as well as its color.
Reflective materials help to bounce light around a room, making the space
lighter. Materials that absorb light make for a darker space overall.
Compare
costs of materials and installation and longevity. The longevity
factor is very important and deserves considerable weight since replacing
a floor is a hassle at best.
Exposure
to strong sunlight can discolor many flooring materials, Use a
UV-resistant film or low-e glass in any windows and/or skylights that
shine onto the floor.
The
substrate under your floor choice is a concern if your choice is not
compatible with the substrate. For instance, if your substrate is concrete
you may have to use special installation techniques to install a hardwood
floor. It can be done but the floor will possibly be higher than adjacent
floors and require transitions to span the height differences at entrances.
Exterior doors may have to be cut down as well. Tile, on the other hand,
could be thin-set right on the concrete, making for an easier and less
expensive installation. Conversely, using tile on a wood substrate with
less than optimum strength almost guarantees that the tile will crack with
the movement we get in our Bay Area earthquakes. Strengthening the
underpinnings of the floor would substantially raise the cost of your tile
floor. To save costs, choose compatible flooring material.
Our
practice of extending cabinets all the way to an eight foot ceiling
in our area impacts floor choice as well. Your cabinets must be installed
at the height of the finished floor to allow removal of built-in appliances
such as your dishwasher. If your finished floor to ceiling height is less
than 96", and you want your cabinets to extend to the ceiling, 96" high
manufactured cabinets won't fit. You will need to use 90" high cabinets
and fill the remaining space with mouldings (or pay for customized
cabinets). That's a 6" high loss of storage for all the cabinets that
extend to the ceiling!
The
surface of a kitchen floor should be smooth, in my opinion.
Anything else presents cleaning problems and tripping hazards.
Vinyl
Vinyl flooring is the material most everyone considers when they
imagine their kitchen floor, at first. Vinyl is available in a myriad of
colors and styles to suit almost any decor. Vinyl comes in sheets/rolls
6' or 12' wide.
Your first consideration when shopping for vinyl is whether your choice
can be seamlessly installed in your kitchen (including coved baseboards,
if used). Seams in vinyl flooring are always the first place to fail.
Avoid them. Choose vinyl flooring with a minimum of embossing. Highly
embossed floors trap and hold dirt making them difficult to properly clean.
Exposure to strong sunlight can discolor vinyl flooring. Sharp objects can
puncture and tear vinyl flooring. Moving heavy objects, such as your
refrigerator, across vinyl flooring without protection can tear the material.
Vinyl can not be repaired easily or very effectively. You may be surprised,
when you compare, to find that vinyl costs about the same, installed, as
longer lasting choices below.
Hardwood
Solid hardwood flooring has been used in homes for centuries with excellent,
long-lasting results. Using hardwood in kitchens is a more recent phenomenon.
We used to wax our hardwood floors, and wax and water don't mix (the wax
coating turns white and milky).
Some years ago a Swedish firm began marketing a finish, Glitsa, in the U.S.
that was very hard and durable, making wax obsolete. Kitchen designers and
other specifiers discovered that smooth, reflective, warm hardwood makes a
great kitchen floor and we have been encouraging our clients to use it ever
since.
The use of Glitsa has diminished due to its toxic qualities, both for the
homeowner and the worker doing the finishing. We are now using
polyurethanes and the new water-based finishes. I recommend water-based
finishes, even though they are not as long lasting as polyurethanes, because
homeowners can touch up traffic areas themselves...That is, IF they have
chosen a water-based finish.
Hardwood floors are easy to clean because they are smooth. Be sure that you
choose material with no grooves for your kitchen to enjoy this benefit. Grooves
catch and hold spills like sugar and are a nightmare to maintain.
Hardwood can be either finished on the job or prefinished. In our area, we
usually use unfinished. With unfinished flooring the floors are sanded before
finishing to get everything smoothed out. Then the finish is applied in layers.
If you choose the benefits of prefinished flooring material (longer wear,
quick occupancy, lower installation cost), be sure to choose a manufacturer like
Junkers (pronounced
Yunkers), Junkers has a tongue and groove system that aligns every inch of
every solid wood board that goes into your floor. The resulting installation
is smooth and beautiful. Junkers also has a system that allows installation
on concrete without extra height problems.
You are only limited by your imagination and budget when examining the various
woods that are offered for flooring, everything from the ubiquitous red oak
to bamboo to exotics. Stick with the colors that can be obtained by dyes,
stains, fuming and finishes. Stay away from whitewashed or painted floors
unless you have lots of discretionary money. They do not hold up.
Hardwood floors come in the colors of the original wood and darker colors
created by stains. The smooth finish tends to be light-reflective in the
light to medium tones. Very dark stains and wood show every speck of dust.
The colors tend to yellow slightly over time, with exposure to sunlight and
artificial light.
Solid hardwood floors are repairable and can be screened (only the finish is
removed) or sanded and refinished to the extent of their thickness (typically
3/8" or 3/4"). They are easily cleaned with little effort due to their smooth
surface. The only enemy is moisture, which can damage a floor if exposure
is lengthy or constant. Minor splatters are really no concern with today's finishes.
Amtico
www.amtico.com Amtico is a flooring
material made in England. It offers many different looks which include
light colors, 20 year warranty durability and cleanability. Amtico can be
installed over floor warming systems, concrete, just about anywhere but
outside. A custom floor can be easily had with Amtico. They will even laser
cut designs for us. Amtico is easily repaired and very resistant to damage.
Marmoleum
www.themarmoleumstore.com/ Two Forbo
production facilities in The Netherlands and Scotland produce Marmoleum.
Made of linseed oil and natural materials, the colors tend to be earthy to
retro bright. Ideal for those 50's period projects. The material cannot
easily be repaired, but is much more resistant to damage than vinyl.
Linoleum is an extremely long-lasting floor. Major caveat: These materials
need to be waxed and periodically stripped to maintain a cleanable shine.
Armstrong is making linoleum
again as well.
Ceramic
Tile, Stone Tile and stone floors are beautiful in the right setting
and appropriate on the right substrate. The choices in color and texture
are endless, including many natural materials. Most tile floors are installed
with a substantial grout line that presents a cleaning problem as well as an
uneven surface. This can be a safety consideration. Items dropped on a tile
or stone floor will break if they are breakable, but my biggest criticism is
their hardness. I have back problems and always get a backache after an hour
standing on a tile, stone, or even a concrete-substrate floor.
Stone floors are usually installed with a minimal grout line, so the grout
cleaning and uneven surfaces are not usually an issue. Porous stones need to
be sealed against dirt and stains and the sealer needs to be periodically
renewed. Tile and stone floors are lifetime floors and can be repaired as
long as you save some tiles and grout. Grout is difficult to match,
especially colored grouts.
For those of you still hungering for more choices; here is an article, by Jo-ann Ivey, I found interesting: Don't feel glued down to wood, stone, tile as flooring choices
Resources:
Beau Monde, Belmont
(650) 654-7703 (Junkers, Amtico, installation & showroom to the trade only)
I need to call them before you can visit. http://www.beaumondefloors.com/
Golden State Flooring,South
San Francisco, Dublin, Sacramento & San Francisco (hardwood floor material
supplier & showrooms) http://www.goldenstateflooring.com/
Bob Stewart/Stewart Tile, (650) 592-7678 (tile setter) ceramic, marble, granite, mosaic, and slate.
Stuart Floors, Redwood City (650) 369-2507 (hardwood, vinyl, installation, showroom)
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